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 Post subject: B20 low compression cycl. #2 & water in oil
PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 11, 2009 12:52 pm
Posts: 114
Location: SE Portland
Howdy,
I haven't gotten into this too much yet, so I'm not sure exactly what's going on, but I thought I'd ask for some initial remarks.

a) Water in oil (not coolant) most likely condensation, I assume a case of blow-by or some valve issues
b) Compression = #1 - 130, #2 - 90, #3 - 145, #4 - 140 (lbs)

Ideas?
Thanks!

Cheers,
Keenan


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 Post subject: Re: B20 low compression cycl. #2 & water in oil
PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:41 pm 
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Location: Aloha, OR
Could be a blown head gasket in #2 to the coolant passages. Is your coolant pressurized when cold?

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 Post subject: Re: B20 low compression cycl. #2 & water in oil
PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:02 am 
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Location: SW Portland, OR
Did you drain your oil and water came out first and/or everything was murky/milky? If not, ignore condensation on your oil cap and leave it be.

When is the last time you adjusted your valves? If more than 3000 miles and you have the original head on there without hardened seats, do an adjustment using the nines method and recheck compression.

www.vclassics.com has some good articles in it.

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 Post subject: Re: B20 low compression cycl. #2 & water in oil
PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 5:03 pm 
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Its a b20. head gasket takes 2 - 3 hrs of work counting all the head gasket surface cleaning....ETC. That is if I take my time and don't rush it.

IF you have 90 PSI in #2 tested with a cap of oil you may only need a head gasket.

X fingers now that its not a ring or egged cyl.

Before you pull the head. take the valve cover off and hand crank it over while watching the valves. look at valve #3 , #4 valves and make sure they are moving up and down as far as the rest of them. I had 107psi in cyl #3 and it was from a bad intake valve lobe that was almost rounded off not opening the valve all the way.

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