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 Post subject: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 12:03 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:37 am
Posts: 116
Wow I forgot how much it was to get stuff fixed these days, thank goodness a portion of this i can do myself. R&R is Remove and Repair IE Labor Charges


R&R Drive Belt 37.24 - I think i can do this myself
Belt 42.67

Power steering flush 46.55 - This one can wait
Flush kit 60.10

Total 106.65 + tax

Steam clean 46.55 - Yea.. after the mechanical stuff is done
Oil leak inspection 46.55

Total 93.10 + tax

R&R rear shocks 111.73 - Will do this myself
Shocks 250.22

Total 316.95 + tax

R&R left outer axle boot 139.66 - Must pay to have this done
Boot Kit 55.73

Total 195.39 + tax

R&R fuel filter 65.17 - Already did this myself and it cost me $12.50 and a 40 oz soda (my room mate ended up taking over) (he's not fat like me so he fits under the car better) and charged me the soda cost :P

Fuel filter 37.77

Total 102.94 + tax

R&R lower ball joints 204.84 - Must pay to have done
Ball joints W/ control arm 339.32

R&R tie rods 130.35 - Must pay to have done
Tie rods 96.90
Aligment 59.95

Total 831.36

Battery Service 27.93 - Did this already

Total 27.93 + tax



Total for everything 1967.49 + tax


So realistically its only

R&R left outer axle boot 139.66
R&R lower ball joints 204.84
R&R tie rods 130.35

+ All parts from IPD

2E8702 Complete PCV Kit
271598E Tie Rod End
271599E Tie Rod End
271901E Control Arm Assembly
271902E Control Arm Assembly
271826 CV Boot Kit
80-7802 Axle Shaft Assembly
Total = $335.44


I wish i could find a way cheaper tto do this, hell the repairs are going to cost me around $500 in labor I think but wow look at the parts difference, why are repair shop parts prices just so insane.


Damn i wish i could get this all done cheaper some how, i'm just a poor college student lol


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 Post subject: Re: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:35 am 
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Location: Aloha, OR
DIY is the only way to make it cheaper. For the price of labor on that, pick up a good set of craftsman tools, a haynes repair manual, floor jack and a couple of jackstands, and git 'er done. I honestly have no idea what the going rate/time on labor is nowadays because it's been close to 20 years since I last took a car to a shop (that wasn't warranty/recall work).

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 Post subject: Re: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2009 6:21 pm
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Location: Vancouver, WA
You dont necessarily have to replace all the pcv parts, unless your hoses are brittle and breaking. this weekend I'm pulling the system off of both my cars and cleaning/flushing them with a pipe cleaner, toothbrush and some solvent. That would take the PCV job down to the cost of the $10 intake manifold gasket.

Where are you located? I could probably lend a hand if you were close enough to bring it over to my place.

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 Post subject: Re: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 7:45 pm 
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Yea, I kinda know DIY is the best route, however.. I have this really bad tendency to break things when I "fix" them. I learned that at a young age I love tearing things apart, but when it comes down to putting them together..i lose pieces or always end up with extra parts.

And thanks for the offer man, I live quite a ways away in in the Tri Cities. I'd definitely drive to somebody's place if they were able to help, just would have to coordinate and all that, but hell i have family in Hood River who i can always stay with too.

I actually plan on putting myself in debt and next quarter after I graduate my current program from clover park I'm going to enroll in the local community college and take their mechanics program. Not really for a career but for the knowledge, i figure it cant hurt to be skilled as an Emergency Manager and have a community college degree in mechanics. :P

The labor I'm not really too upset about, I understand there is a going rate and hey, they need to get paid right. But the difference in parts cost (granted I did go with some generic probably not the best control arms)


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 Post subject: Re: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 8:09 pm
Posts: 4539
Location: Portland, Oregon
Here's what I would do if I were you...

R&R Drive Belt: Free if you DIY
Belt 17.95 at FPC Groton: http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-exec/ ... model/1136

Power steering flush: Disconnect the hose feeding back to the reservoir, put it into a bucket, and have someone slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth... watch the level in the reservoir till it drops down to the bottom... then add new fluid. Repeat till the fluid being "dumped" into the bucket is the same color as the fluid going in.
Flush kit: You don't need no stinkin' flush kit. High quality ATF: Under $4 each at WalMart.

Steam clean: NO NEED!
Buy yourself a $10 roll of quarters, and a bottle of Castrol Super Clean. Drive around till the engine is nice and warm, go to a self-serve car wash, spray the Super Clean all over your engine (careful not to let it sit on aluminum parts or get it on your paint!), then use the high-pressure rinse to clean it all off.

Oil leak inspection: Free. Just look at it yourself with a flashlight after you've cleaned the motor top to bottom. You should be able to figure out where the leak is coming from. It's likely your PCV system that's clogged, forcing blow-by oil out every crack and crevasse!

R&R rear shocks: Again, check FPC Groton if you're fine with OEM replacements.

R&R left outer axle boot - Yep, just pay to have this done

R&R fuel filter 65.17 - Get your skinny roommate to do it again. This time hold off on the soda till he's done. Maybe buy both of you a pizza.

R&R lower ball joints 204.84 - You can actually do this yourself. It's not that hard. On these cars, you don't need a ball joint puller. Simply remove the wheel, disconnect the inboard control arm mounting bolts so it "hangs" down, then remove the bolt that runs through the bottom of the spindle, which holds the spindle to the ball joint. Use penetrating oil to loosen it up, and use a pry bar to separate if it's stuck. It should fall away just fine. Installation is reverse of removal.
Ball joints W/ control arm 339.32 (again check with FPC Groton... and at this point I think you're eligible for their discount for buying in bulk!)

R&R tie rods 130.35 - Yep, just have someone else do this. Also: do all the suspension stuff at the same time, and schedule the alignment for right after it's all finished.

Bottom line: you just saved yourself a crapload of money dude.

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 Post subject: Re: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 10:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:56 pm
Posts: 1935
Location: Milwaukie 97222
If your not wanting to do it yourself and would like a shop that is very fair and does good work go see Adam @ Adam's auto service in Oregon city..He went to Volvo University and really knows his stuff

503-722-4172


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 Post subject: Re: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 7:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 4:57 pm
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Location: SW Portland, OR
And find another shop to have the work done that gets done.

About the PCV system servicing, everything IS going to be brittle, you WILL need to remove the oil trap and replace the connecting seal/hose and hoses. Unless it's been done before.

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 Post subject: Re: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 9:36 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:37 am
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Oh I'm almost positive it will need to be entirely replaced (the pcv system that is) Also I would feel happier knowing I had all brand new bits in there anyhow.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions here, looks like some of this stuff im going to try myself. Called my grandfather and I'll just head to his place in Monument/Kimberly Oregon and use his shop. He has all the jacks, floor stands, air wrenches, cherry picker (hope i wont need it haha) In fact, if a he does not have the tool a mechanic likely wont either. 50 years running a 1000 acre alfalfa farm before you retire leaves you with a lot of tools :P

For the work I need done, looks like driving to Oregon City is on the books, I would honestly be much more comfortable taking it to a guy you guys recommend vs this mechanic in town. I was just happy to find a guy who knew about Volvo's and would let me use my own parts.

Edit

Was talking to my grandfather, apparently his mechanic is a father son shop in the middle of nowhere Central Oregon, they charge $25 an hour and will drive to my grand fathers shop... Might as well have them do my tie rods and axel/cv boots - at that rate i'm saving a bucket load vs the $93 an hour i'd pay at Simmonson. Oh and they just informed me that if they use my own parts the rate go's up to $104 an hour and there is no warranty on the work, i do not expect a parts warranty obviously but a warranty on a steering rack failure related to a improper tie rod installation or something along those lines would be called for in my opinion. But nope, so I gain an increased labor cost, and loss of work guarantee. Maybe I just expect too much? lol


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 Post subject: Re: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:37 am
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small update, though nobody likely cares that much haha.

Looks like I'm just gonna take the car to IPD to have the stuff I cant do done, heck the labor rate is so affordable I may have them do just about everything.

74 vs 104 an hour and no tax plus a warrant on the work and parts installed by the supplier who deals with volvos only (well subarus as well) - I cant really complain at all.


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 Post subject: Re: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 8:10 pm 
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Location: Aloha, OR
That does sound like a better deal, particularly since you're getting the parts from them anyway.


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 Post subject: Re: Repair Shop on crack?
PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2004 9:53 pm
Posts: 400
Location: Beaverton, OR
what does IPD charge? RSI was $60/hour, I'm going to take my car to them when I need some performance stuff done.

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